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Wednesday, 16 August 2023

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I learned to appreciate dealership service departments after I had a clutch repair done by an independent shop. The repair seemed to be good, but the third-party parts used wore out after a year and a half. I took my vehicle to a reputable dealership, which used OEM parts, and found that not only did the repair cost the same, but the clutch parts lasted for several years before they needed to be replaced.

I know some who get their vehicles serviced by a “guy who does a great job at a fair price”. Good for them. But I have found the two dealerships I have dealt with over the past 25 years to be reliable and generally cost effective.

Just out of curiosity, who told you that it's normal for new brakes to make noise? If you install coated rotors (a wise choice in the northeast for rust prevention) you might get a very slight noise for a few stops until the pads scrape the coating from the engagement area, but otherwise you shouldn't have any noise.

You will get noise and rapid wear if you put new pads on rusty or worn rotors. Is that what happened?

Paying $400 or $452 for a full brake job isn't a bad price; for just the fronts it's pretty steep in my opinion, especially if you weren't satisfied with the quality of the work from the first mechanic.

For comparison, I just replaced front and rear pads and rotors on my wife's Nissan Leaf with high-end coated parts ordered from RockAuto. Total cost including shipping was $250. My labor cost my wife one large homemade pizza.

I understand that many folks don't want to work on their own car, or are scared of making a mistake. However, there is something to be said for:
1) learning new skills, especially if can they save you money;
2) having full control of the cost and scheduling of your car maintenance; and
3) being fully confident in the quality of the work done to your car.

If that's not your thing, then you have the right idea in finding and sticking with a trusted mechanic. Why not make it an official monogamous repair relationship and schedule an annual service and inspection appointment for your car.

As an aside, I'm not convinced that Napa sells budget (price) parts. I just checked and their cheapest non-coated (i.e., rapid rust) front + rear pads and rotors for my wife's car are $280 with tax. Napa's closest equivalent to the quality parts I bought and installed are $450 with tax. Ouch.

You're probably lucky to have found a specialist mechanic who is also honest. I gave up on private mechanics years ago after too many bad experiences, some similar to what you described, and many others worse. I will only maintain my car at the auto dealer.

It certainly isn’t normal for new brakes to make chirping and grinding noises! So you paid 50% extra overall, drove about with possibly dangerous brakes for a few weeks, and will now need to get them re-done sooner than normal because you got substandard parts! I hope you went back to the fist guy and told him you intend to blacken his reputation hereabouts.

Those prices for brake jobs are a joke. (Not that we're much cheaper in a non-vacation area.)

The parts store rotors are cheap, all being made in China. There are probably only $100-125 in parts and the less ethical mechanics just unbolt the old and bolt on the new. They make a healthy margin!

I bought brake pads and new rotors at the dealer a few months ago. Got underneath the car and discovered one big bolt connected to what looked like a suspension part. I tried to break loose that bolt, but it was too tight.

I had to dump the car (with the new parts in the trunk) at the nearby garage to get them installed. The original brakes lasted about 75,000 miles. I doubt I'll get such long service life out of the replacement parts -- even if they are genuine factory parts.

(Don't get me started on the thin, one-use-only rotors that are used today!)

Stay with that mechanic who was recommended to you by the local racer and take the car in often enough to catch small problems before they get bigger.

There was a time when a backyard mechanic could do a lot on most cars. Today, you can barely identify what's under the hood. So you are at the mercy of the honesty or lack of when you take a car in for maintenance.

I took my car in for two tires and an oil change a while back. My chair in the waiting area gave me a clear view of my car on the lift. Two tires were changed out and I was called up to the counter. I reminded the person about the oil change which he assured me had been accomplished. I verbally said that I didn't see that happen, to which he said I was wrong. I walked into the garage (against all the signs that said no customers allowed), pulled the dipstick out which was covered in the sludge of old oil.

They charged me for the tires and informed me that I was not welcome back. I wonder how many people were not able to observe what was not done to their cars.

It behooves one to become familiar with the machines one depends on. One thing you can do is purchase the factory service manual for your exact model of car. Yes...it will cost $150-$200 new., if you're lucky less used. But for any given service job, you can see---ahead of time---how involved it is, what level of expertise is required, and familiarize yourself with how the car works as a machine. Also, almost very car has an dedicated online forum dealing with mechanical issues. In my case, by reading and occasionally contributing to the Toyota 4Runner Forum for a period of years, I know every possible thing that can need service or go wrong with my '97 4runner. Not interested in learning how the costly-to-repair thing that you depend on works? Be prepared to pay.

When I lived in Switzerland (Zürich) I had a guy who did the maintenance for all my manual cameras (Bronicas, Rolleiflex, Olympus OM and Leica (M3))
Perfect service, and not so expensive as I gave him all my business. Mainly CLI but the occasional bigger stuff like a shutter curtain for the M3, and shutter calibration for the Rollei). I preferred dealing with one person, rather than opting for any kind of specialists (even if you could find them)
And I loved going in and giving him and his wife the work

Back in the UK now..... not so sure where to go

I'm generally pretty good when it comes to money and I know a thing or two about cars.

Where I tend to waste money is when I discover something that interests me and try to get involved on the cheap - only to admit to myself later that I would have saved a lot of money by just going for what I really wanted.

My Nikon Z system is an example. I tried a Z50, then a Z5... and finally landed on a Z7II. I should have just gone with the Z7II.

I did the same thing last year, but with dentists.

I hadn't been to the dentist since 2019 because -- you know why -- and I clearly had some cavities that needed filling. But my dentist of 20 years was now quite far away, and I finally bit the bullet and located a highly-recommended dentist near me.

Well, after the visit, the sheer amount of work the dentist proposed was daunting. Don't get me wrong! My mouth is prone to cavities, and it was quite possible I needed every recommended filling! But you hear stories about dentists on the make, so I wanted to be sure.

I booked an appointment with my previous dentist, being very up front about what I was up to and that I would pay out of pocket. They were very understanding, and fully supportive of my transition to a nearby practitioner. Turns out the new dentist was on the money. My old dentist confirmed every cavity and wished me good luck in the repairs.

I'm now 3/4 of the way done with repairs, and I haven't had to lose a night of sleep whether I was being taken for a ride.

I had a trusted mechanic for years, a friend of mine from high school who ran a local shop in NW CT. When he decided to move to NC about 20 years ago, I decided to just have my work done at the dealer.

The good thing about your Honda, Mike, is that any experienced mechanic has probably worked on one or two of them before. The bad thing is that there are probably no Honda specialists nearby, outside of a dealer's shop. It's been my choice to work with independent brand specialist shops, who work cheaper than the dealer but have the same sort of expertise and daily experience with the cars. They know what tends to go wrong, and they know where to check for early signs of trouble.

That's been necessary because I've owned low-volume and/or highly strung automobiles: mostly VWs, but also SAABs, Audis, and now a Mercedes. You really want to stay away from dealer pricing with those, but you also need to make sure only the finest, most delicious fluids and oils are used. (Do you know how much synthetic oil a Merc V6 holds? Eight quarts.) I don't mind paying more for maintenance, though - it's those repairs that kill ya.

At least I can hire a mechanic. For my first ten years of car ownership, I had a rare, rear-engined German sedan that was utterly unlike a VW, made by a dead brand, and most mechanics refused to look at it. It forced me to be my own mechanic, up to and including an engine replacement. Those were the days...

Brake rotors? Had to look that up. We call them brake discs.

On the franchised main dealer vs independent garage thing, I find that the quality of independent mechanics varies a lot. I once had an independent charge me quite a lot for a tow truck to collect my car only to watch through my window as the mechanic turned up, got in my car and drove it away. No tow truck in sight. Silly trick, we never used him again. Currently, I'm using a local family run business. I find them quite good. They take pride in showing me the old worn parts they remove and explaining the issues. Main dealers on the other hand are a rip off. Ridiculous prices for work that is often worse. I recently had a timing belt changed on my 8 year old VW Polo. My independent charged £584. I was shocked by this, I was expecting it to be £300 based on prior experience. My main dealer quoted £1050 for the same job. Rip off Britain.

I have a new shape Toyota Rav4 hybrid and the brakes have something like 100,000 miles of life left, due to the regeneration mode, etc..

A few years ago, my M4 needed quite a bit of repair work doing, so I sent it to Malcolm Taylor. He did a great job, replacing the shutter, fixing the loose elements in the rangefinder and general servicing. It works a dream, so silent, so pleasant and nicer than my 'Classic' Leitz M6.

Malcom was entrusted by Dr Leitz to restore a great many early Leicas, including the original UR. An interesting read about Malcolm is to be found in this link:

https://www.worldphotoadventure.com/in-conversation-with-malcolm-taylor/

Once you find a shop that does a good job, keep going back and recommend them to friends. Price swings of a hundred or two are irrelevant in the long run and shopping for cheapest is silly imo. Take the car in at least once a year to have things inspected. Brake and suspension wear is a gradual thing, best to have eyes on them periodically. And do not scrimp on oil changes especially if your car has a turbo. Don't let the car sit idle for long periods.

Another thing. You know how they're called technicians now and not mechanics. That's because the days of nut-busters and grease-monkeys has been over for at leat 2 generations. It's complicated work and your life may depend on it being done properly. Prevention is better than repair, as with humans.

Some dealer service departments are ok, some aren't. I've had good luck with them, although you do tend to overpay at dealers. If I buy new again, I'll likely go for the longest mileage dealer-supported maintenance program because of all the electronics these days. When it works, it's a marvel, but when it doesn't tracking down problems can blow anyone's budget.

I’ve work on my own cars for 50 years. Disk brakes are far easier to do than the old drum brakes by the way. I have never had new brakes make noise after doing them. If they make noise after a day there is something wrong with them.

It is sad that there are so few honest professionals around anymore. I have been cheated on car repairs. I have found four honest dentists in my lifetime. One time the difference in suggested dental repair cost was 6000:200.

I read the forum for my Jeep Patriot to stay abreast of known issues. The consensus among folks who do their own work is that third party parts are now crap…although I don’t think that applies to most brake pads. It’s not unusual for a third party part (especially electronic) to be bad right out of the box. Everyone now recommends paying top dollar for OEM parts. It wasn’t that long ago that a shadetree mechanic would never think of “wasting money” on OEM. I assume this shift is due to pandemic supply line changes?

My vehicle is so incredibly basic that so far I’ve been able to do all the needed repairs myself. But to be honest, it hasn’t really needed much…knock on wood. My naturally aspirated, port injected 2.4 L World engine was designed by the Global Engine Alliance (Chrysler, Mitsubishi, Hyundai) with most of the design work being done by Hyundai and the transmission is actually made by Hyundai. So far, so good.

Your dilemma reminded me of an old Seinfeld episode I stumbled upon recently. Jerry had a falling out with his mechanic, David Puddy. It seems that Puddy was doing Jerry’s move on Elaine without permission. Jerry said Puddy could do the move but only when he was out of the city. As soon as Jerry’s car broke down he changed his tune and said, “What was I thinking. A good mechanic is worth his weight in gold.” You are lucky to have a good mechanic nearby.

Front disc brakes are easy to do yourself, and cheap, about $90 for parts incuding new rotors for my old Prius. Drum brakes, forget it, time to visit my mechanic buddy.

Mike,
Make friends with the Honda specialist.
Make an annual booking for late spring or early winter.
Listen to him, and listen to your car.

I had a clutch replaced by a large firm with many branches in England.

They specialised in this task, but 18 months later the "new" clutch had failed. I later learned that they fitted reconditioned clutches that should not have been reconditioned; I suppose it cost them less.

This was years ago, and although I see that their TrustPilot reviews are quite good now, I'll never use them again.

I wish I had the same degree of confidence in car dealer service departments that some other readers have. Early this year I had to take my Forester into Subaru so they could replace a faulty sensor (it sometimes didn't know the car was in Park when you turned off the ignition, and wouldn't let you remove the key).

Since I needed an oil change, I figured I'd have them do it since the car was already there. No problem. When they finished, though, they came back and recommended $1600 in additional service. On a car with 16,000 miles on it. I looked at the rather extensive list of items, and found that they had not discovered any actual issues with the car, just a bunch of additional things to inspect. I declined them all, and when I went to pick up the car, the guy in the service department who originally wrote up my order said there was nothing on the list that really needed attention, and my car was in fine shape.

A few months later I mentioned this to the mechanic who had serviced my previous car (and who will service my Subaru going forward), and he said that this tactic is becoming more common, at least in the Chicago area. It's a way to upsell service, even when additional service isn't required.

It's so easy to end up spending far too much money in a futile effort to economize, incrementally moving up the quality ladder, rather than getting the right product or service at the start. My equivalent photographic blunder has to do with buying tripods.
Like most newbies, I bought a cheap aluminum/plastic tripod shortly after my first real SLR. It was useless. So I bought a rather better aluminum tripod with a non-standard plastic quick release. Almost as useless. I finally bit the bullet and bought a Manfrotto/Bogen 3021 aluminum tripod circa 1988. Rock-solid, reliable, though just a bit too short for me over time. The backache from leaning down to look through viewfinders got old. So I finally splurged on a very expensive carbon fiber Gitzo I don't have to bend over to use. Tripod heaven.
The old Manfrotto? I repurposed it to serve as my primary painting tripod, mounting a pochade box/easel on it for outdoor ("plein air") painting. We have become old friends over the years. Other painters laugh at me because it's so heavy compared to their lithe carbon fiber wonders. But it's rock-steady in the wind, and it has been a loyal servant for more than three decades.
This morning one of the leg clamps was sliding a bit when I was painting on the shore of Canadice Lake while my wife paddled her kayak. When we got home I tightened the 8 mm nut opposite the clamp lever to help the clamp bite. *Ping*. The clamp's cast metal body cracked like a microwaved egg. Metal fatigue. It felt like seeing a friend break a hip.
Fortunately with thousands of these tripods still in use, there's a spare parts ecosystem. So I'm eagerly awaiting a new clamp from a guy in South Carolina to resuscitate my old friend.

Someone commented about the difficulty of servicing drum brakes. Most of you probably don't deal with them anymore, but my 2010 Honda still has them on the rear. Luckily, Honda put two of them on the car, so you always have one to refer to when working on the other. Once you complete the first, you now have it as a model for the second. Easy peasy.

I'm a few days late to this one. I used to do all the tune ups, maintenance, and basic repairs on our cars initially because we had no money and later because I enjoyed it. I stopped when everything required a specialized computer and training courses. After that I did what others described--tried to find and use reliable fairly priced mechanics or dealers.

I have now owned a Tesla Model Y for 3 years/37,000 miles. It has a 300 mile range in balmy weather and around 225 in cold weather. It accelerates like a bat out of hell. It has required no repairs or maintenance during that time except for replacing wiper blades, cabin air filter, and rotating tires. I am told the regenerative brakes will last at least 100,000 miles. Per my calculations, I have saved >$1000 in fuel costs in the last 12 months compared to driving the car with gasoline as fuel. In the US there still is not adequate charging infrastructure in place and I am an "early adopter" but we are approaching an inflection point and the world of maintaining and repairing vehicles is about to radically change.

I've been doing my own car maintenance and some repairs for several years now, and its saved me so much money. The slippery slope all started with a Scotty Kilmer video (which I think I came across on here, Mike). I started doing my oil changes and the more I videos I watched, the more maintenance items I added. I started to slip into small repairs and gradually took on larger ones including air conditioning, suspension work, power steering pump replacement, brakes, etc. With each job I did I would look online for average repair costs to either inspire me take on a job myself or increase my sense of satisfaction with what I had accomplished. I am not mechanically-inclined, but I am pleased with the things you can learn from YouTube.

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