Three major contributors to The Online Photographer—
Peter Turnley signing books for fans at the Leica Store in San Francisco last night (despite the complications of the World Series). Photo by Ctein.
Ctein and John Camp in Bloomington, Minnesota. If the man on the left looks like a photographer-physicist and the man on the right looks like a novelist, you probably should ignore that. Photo by David Romm (used with permission).
(When I first met Ctein in the '90s, I asked how I would know him, as we were meeting on the street in San Fran. He said something like "You can't miss me. I look like a radical gay Jewish cross between Rasputin and Jesus Christ." And sure enough, when I saw him from a distance coming toward me on the sidewalk, I thought, "that must be Ctein," and it was. He now looks very different, more like a lifelong hippie scientist crossed with Galdalf. John to me looks like maybe a "star professor" at a major University, those academics whose fame reaches past their departments to spread campus-wide and maybe further. Or do you have a different take based on first-blink appearances?
I don't know what a photographer looks like, unless it's a guy in a Domke vest with three DSLR bodies hanging off him at various points, at least one with an enormous telephoto. I remember hearing when Walker Evans was at Yale that the "uniform" for the serious acolyte was faded jeans, an army surplus jacket, and a worn used Leica.
Alfred Stieglitz, seen here in 1934, didn't quite fit the stereotype, although he favored capes...hard to know exactly what that meant, since styles have changed so much. It would be an affectation today—was it then, too? Or as much?
I seem to remember an early photograph of Edward Weston in both a cape and a beret, although Weston habitually dressed casually after he went bohemian.
This is probably quintessential photographer style, eternally:
Lee Friedlander by Richard Avedon. Speaking of whom, this is how Avedon dressed:
...The style telltale being the second button undone (de rigeur for male fashion photographers everywhere?) and of course the partly rolled-up sleeves (always cracking the nut, as Avedon would say—his studio operating expenses ran to $60,000 a month in the '90s).
And that's not even getting into the distaff side. I'd nominate Dorothea Lange as the quintessential female photographer style icon, for her particular mix of dashing artiness and frumpery. Although you can't fault this look:
That's Imogen Cunningham in 1967, and I believe the photo is by Jim Alinder. Now there's a lifelong hippie, and, if you Google her, you'll see she did have a wonderful sense of photographer style.)
Mike
(Thanks to John, Ctein, and David Romm)
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(To see all the comments, click on the "Comments" link below.)
Featured Comments from:
Patrick Dodds: "This beautiful photograph [contains nudity, albeit inoffensively—it was the first "full frontal" nude published in LIFE magazine —Ed.] of Imogen Cunningham was recently referenced on Zack Arias' blog and should be shared widely—it's delightful."
Mike replies: Yes indeed, it is wonderful. It's been shared widely since it was taken in 1974 by Judy Dater—her best-known photograph. The model is Twinka Thiebaud, who posed for a number of prominent photographers, and who is now nearing 70 and living in Los Angeles. The photograph is thought to be based on Thomas Hart Benton's "Persephone," in which he paints himself as voyeur peering around a tree trunk at a nude woman, in a clever play on an artist painting a model.
R. Edelman: "I visited the Leica San Francisco store today to view Peter Turnley's photos that were on display there, and to check out the book French Kiss. I did not meet Mr. Turnley as he was out on a Master Class. The photos on display were wonderful in all respects: subject matter, composition, lighting, and printing. The book is of a technically high production quality, and the photos therein contained more of the same wonderfulness that characterized the photos that were on display. Henri Cartier-Bresson has nothing on Peter Turnley, my friends. I ended up ordering two of the French Kiss books; one for myself, and one to be used as a gift for my beloved aunt, who is herself a fine photographer and a Leica enthusiast."
Sometimes the most enduring "photographer styles" are entirely made up (or dressed by Chas Gerretsen, in this case):
Posted by: MarkB | Saturday, 25 October 2014 at 03:52 PM
When I wrote the comment that started this discussion, I wrote it as an ex-newspaper columnist; that is, you don't want too many qualifications, because it kills the thought. But here are a few qualifications:
1. I think virtually everybody wears uniforms. They do this to signal their interests and their statuses. You look at Ctein, and you suspect he's not a Republican, that he doesn't work in a job that requires a suit and tie, and so on. You look at Avedon, and you suspect that he might work in an artistic endeavor. But uniforms are different than "artist-y" dress. Avedon found a style that worked for him, and made it into a uniform, so he didn't have to think about it. The people I was talking about are those people who play close attention to style and changes in style, and are always out front with the latest variety of "how an artist looks." (Rule of thumb: always suspect people with dramatic hats.)
2. You can be fooled. I wear a suit probably five times a year, for a few hours each time. The rest of the time, I wear jeans, knit shirts, cowboys boots or Nikes, and jean jackets, so the shot of me with Ctein is not representative of much of anything. It's quite possible that Burri, in Mike's photo, was *dressed* for that shot, by a publicity photographer who wanted to send the "artist" message. My comment was not aimed so much at Burri, and the idea of "dressing like an artist." But it's also possible that Burri dressed himself, because good photographers often have exceptional eyes for fashion, and for "looks." But do people who do that also carry with them the fatal flaw? I mean, look at the photo of Imogen Cunningham or Lee Friedlander, both of whom (IMHO) were "better" (for some value of "better') than Burri. Do they look like people who have spent hours primping?
(The photo of Alfred Steiglitz is also instructive. He is wearing the uniform of a 1930s European Intellectual -- gives off the same vibe as Albert Einstein. Because, uh, that's what they were.)
So, I suspect that there's something in the concept that "arty" dress says something about your status as a producing artist. I'm not sure of that, though. And it's not a law, or anything, it's more a comment on a possible statistical correlation.
Posted by: John Camp | Saturday, 25 October 2014 at 04:32 PM
This beautiful photograph of Imogen Cunningham was recently referenced on Zack Arias' blog and should be shared widely - it's delightful (NSFW):
http://www.saralando.com/blog-en/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/judy-dater-imogen-cunningham-and-twinka.jpg
Posted by: Patrick Dodds | Saturday, 25 October 2014 at 04:38 PM
Mike
There are two great pictures of Stieglitz wearing his cape on page 127 of "Ansel Adams An Autobiography".
Posted by: Leslie Ashe | Saturday, 25 October 2014 at 04:50 PM
Here is my photo of Seattle photographer Larry Larsen doing his Stieglitz impersonation:
Posted by: Dean Forbes | Saturday, 25 October 2014 at 06:22 PM
They look like a trio of right dodgy customers. However, if I met them in the local's bar of a posh country pub, it would be a very interesting night.
Posted by: Roger Bradbury | Saturday, 25 October 2014 at 06:50 PM
Let us never forget the inimitable Margaret Bourke-White, the only photographer whose fully clothed self-portrait became a popular WWII barracks pinup: http://jackiewhiting.net/Art/BourkeWhite/Selfportrait.jpg
Posted by: david adam edelstein | Saturday, 25 October 2014 at 07:59 PM
What wonderful pictures! Thanks.
Posted by: Bill Wheeler | Saturday, 25 October 2014 at 10:14 PM
Ctein looks like a Russian novelist (Tolstoy?); John Camp a cardinal of the Roman Catholic church; Peter Turnley, well, like Peter Turnley or twin brother David.
My quintessential image of a photographer is that of a Vietnam War-era photojournalist, before body armor became de rigeur, of whom Sean Flynn (and Dana Stone) is the epitome.

Flynn and Stone before they went missing in Cambodia. Photo credit: wikimedia.org
Sean Flynn was affectionately portrayed by Michael Herr in Dispatches. The Dennis Hopper character in Apocalypse Now (co-written by Herr) is supposedly based on Sean Flynn. But Flynn is more swashbuckling than Hopper, and the latter had too many cameras.
I associate supertelephoto lenses with papparazzi.
As for fine art photographers, it can be anybody in street clothes with a camera bag (Hadley Pro?) slung on one shoulder.
Posted by: Sarge | Saturday, 25 October 2014 at 10:57 PM
I visited the Leica San Francisco store today to view Peter Turnley's photos that were on display there, and to check out the book, "French Kiss". I did not meet Mr. Turnley as he was out on a Master Class. The photos on display were wonderful in all respects: subject matter, composition, lighting and printing. The book is of a technically high production quality, and the photos therein contained more of the same wonderfulness that characterized the photos that were on display. Henri Cartier-Bresson has nothing on Peter Turnley, my friends. I ended up ordering two of the "French Kiss" books; one for myself, and one to be used as a gift for my beloved aunt, who is herself a fine photographer and a Leica enthusiast.
Posted by: R. Edelman | Saturday, 25 October 2014 at 11:41 PM
Now this is interesting. I spotted what I thought was an alternate take of the photo of Imogen Cunningham and Twinka posing at that Persephone tree.
http://www.scottnicholsgallery.com/exhibitions-2010/an-illustrated-view-of-yosemite/35_imogen_and_twinka_1974/
Nice fine, right? But the SF gallery displaying that image on the Web says the photo is by Richard Mazer.
And within the same online portfolio, "An Illustrated View of Yosemite," the gallery includes and properly credits the Judy Dater image.
What's that about? Richard Mazer and Judy Dater were both shooting the scene? Mazer was documenting Judy Dater's shoot?
[Beats me, but let us know what you find out. Looks like Richard died in January 2013. Maybe the shoot was Judy's and Richard never published a "piggyback" shot but his family decided to? --Mike]
Posted by: Joe Holmes | Sunday, 26 October 2014 at 07:53 AM
"I remember hearing when Walker Evans was at Yale that the "uniform" for the serious acolyte was faded jeans, an army surplus jacket, and a worn used Leica." - WelI, I guess I'll have to settle for 'two out of three ain't bad...'
Posted by: Chris Y. | Sunday, 26 October 2014 at 09:15 AM
FYI - Twinka Thiebaud is the daughter of the famous painter Wayne Thiebaud.
Posted by: Jim Meeks | Sunday, 26 October 2014 at 12:35 PM
The Imogen photo was during a Yosemite workshop with 100 people:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imogen_and_Twinka_at_Yosemite
Posted by: Jon Shiu | Sunday, 26 October 2014 at 01:02 PM
Looks like I had the look down all the way back in highschool!
Posted by: David Dyer-Bennet | Sunday, 26 October 2014 at 01:56 PM
What about the opposite look: an ordinary person with a camera? That's often the goal of a street photographer to blend in.
For example, does Garry Winograd look like "A Photographer" or just another person on the street with a camera?
Winogrand on Hollywood Blvd near Las Palmas, photo by David Fahey. c. 1982
Winogrand by Papageorge (when making one of his most well known images)
Two for one: Winogrand and Arbus by Papageorge in 1967. Could you tell if they're photographers or not?
John Camp said: The photo of Alfred Steiglitz is also instructive. He is wearing the uniform of a 1930s European Intellectual -- gives off the same vibe as Albert Einstein. Because, uh, that's what they were
Alfred Stieglitz might have been affecting the European look but he was an American from Hoboken, New Jersey. Can you be a European intellectual without actually being European?
Posted by: Kevin Purcell | Sunday, 26 October 2014 at 03:35 PM
The wife says: a smart guy like you shouldn't be misspelling Gandalf.
[Especially since I played Gandalf in a 7th grade school production of "The Hobbit," the high point of my career as a thespian. In fact, the ONLY point of my career as a thespian. [g] --Mike]
Posted by: D B | Sunday, 26 October 2014 at 08:11 PM
Why is Gimli son of Gloin wearing spectacles ?
And which rogue geneticist managed to blend the DNA of Chevy Chase and Kirk Tuck ?
(Apologies to Ctein and John.)
Posted by: Nigel | Monday, 27 October 2014 at 12:08 PM
What's with photographers and fluent beards? The venerable Michele Ghigo, erstwhile Chairman of the Italian Photographers Federation, still shooting well in his eighties and a high school classmate of my father, sports one not much shorter than Ctein's!
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Michele-Ghigo/60294661840?sk=info&ref=page_internal
Besides, even Ms Cunningham seemed to enjoy unruly hair of the artist's kind... :)
Posted by: Giovanni Maggiora | Monday, 27 October 2014 at 02:43 PM
FYI - Twinka Thiebaud is the daughter of the famous painter Wayne Thiebaud.
And I had the chance to hear Wayne Thiebaud speak back in 1994 or 1995. A fantastic speaker as well as painter. "Well, in color, basically all you have to work with is a bucket of coals and a bucket of ice..." [and therefore you have to make choices about how to use them]. He then proceeded to illustrate those words with slide after slide.
I'll always remember that talk. I learned so much, and found words for things I already knew, but didn't have a way to talk about.
Posted by: Trecento | Monday, 27 October 2014 at 07:26 PM
The modern analog photographer is a hipster by necessity. See fig. 1 above, entitled "Dork".
(Photo courtesy of myself, model: myself)
Posted by: LJ Slater | Tuesday, 28 October 2014 at 10:28 PM