The three people who introduced the Japanese idea of "bokeh" to the Western photography enthusiast community were John Kennerdell, Oren Grad, and Harold Merklinger. My part in it was that I published their articles, and commissioned Oren's and Harold's. As a lens enthusiast hobbyist for a number of years, I also got rather too obsessed with the aesthetics of the bokeh rendition of lenses, and probably discussed it in forums and and published articles to excess.
So this might sound very odd coming from me, but, as I look at amateur, enthusiast, and hobbyist pictures all over everywhere on the Internet and in books and on display, the single technical mistake that ruins more amateur photographs than anything else is: focus problems. Not enough depth of field (D-o-F). Not enough of the main subject in focus. Imperfect placement of the plane of focus is also common.
I really dislike showing, or linking to, actual work as examples. It seems unkind to single out specific photographers to hold up as negative examples; I'm uncomfortable even appearing to shame or ridicule others. So I'll just describe three random pictures that I happened across yesterday. All are digital JPEGs taken with decent ILCs, posted online at a photo-sharing site.
—> In one, an object is being thrown off a bridge, in full sun. The picture is taken from the ground and shows: the object in the air; the bridge; two people rendered relatively small up on the bridge looking down at the falling object; and, in the foreground, several waterfowl standing on the bank. The birds aren't large in the frame—they're still reasonably far from camera position—but because of perspective they're rendered significantly larger than the people up in the corner of the frame on the bridge. Although it looks very much like the photographer had positioned him- or herself so as to include the birds in the composition, they're well out of focus. The picture was taken at ISO 500, 1/4000th, and with an ƒ/1.4 lens at ƒ/2.4. In other words, there was plenty of room in the camera settings to have used a smaller aperture and gotten the birds in the D-o-F, while still retaining enough shutter speed to freeze the falling object. (Generally, falling objects in the middle distance, especially when viewed at an angle while still accelerating, rather than directly from the side in full freefall, require no more than 1/1000th to freeze the action, and that includes a "safety factor.")
—> In the next, not by the same photographer, the subject is stone columns holding up a structure, a bridge or a pier. Again, full sunlight, and there's no action anywhere, nothing moving. We don't see any sky except a little through the columns, so no moving clouds even. Everything is sharp save one thing. Along the entire left-hand edge of the picture is a fat strip showing the edge of the closest stone column, not particularly close to the camera. It's jarringly out of focus, with poor "front bokeh." Why? Why wouldn't you simply stop down a stop or two, or recompose a bit?
—> In the last, again by a different photographer, we're seeing a scene by the side of a raised highway, looking down the long view parallel to the highway. Again, full daylight. The natural features form a sort of visual gully or halfpipe. The picture area mostly comprises the side of the embankment on the left, plenty of foreground, and scraggly woods and brush on the right hand side, which altogether makes up well over half of the image area, maybe even two-thirds. In the distance, in the center of the composition (and possibly the location of a central point of focus indicator), we see a rise with many buildings and their surroundings, rendered very small in the frame. The distant buildings are in focus, and everything in the middle distance and closer, all of the foreground, all of the embankment, and all of the woods on the right, are out of focus, but not pleasingly so. The comments say, "Nice!" and "Good capture" and so forth. I can't see any redeeming quality or subject matter in the picture at all, or in the composition or lack of it, but of course it would be impolite to say so.
These aren't exceptions; it sometimes seems to me that half the pictures I see have the PFP disease.
The poor focus problem has been made worse by the fact that in recent years, shallow D-o-F has become a signifier of the ownership of large-sensor cameras and large, expensive, fast lenses, such that the poor focus problem morphed into a status issue. And you know how those humans are when it comes to status-signifying. :-) Another thing making it worse is the increasingly common but wrongheaded idea that if you pay for a lens with a large maximum aperture, you should use that aperture all the time or as much as possible.
We definitely need an adjustment. A picture needs the right D-o-F, not the least possible D-o-F.
Mike
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Featured Comments from:
jt: "Preach, brother! I think I made this same comment before on TOP, but I have a cookbook where nearly every photo has very narrow D-o-F, and it drives me crazy. These are illustrations. I want to see the food. All of the food."
Norm Snyder: "Interesting thoughts here. They are timely, in my case, as I recently acquired a fast 90mm lens to use for some performance photography. It's decently sharp wide open at ƒ/2, but it definitely works better stopped down a stop, so as to get, for example, the eyes, nose and mouth of a subject all in focus.
"I should have learned. I once owned an 85mm ƒ/1.2 lens for some Canon gear I was then using, and thought it was wonderful, until I looked carefully at images of a performer, shot from perhaps six feet away, in which the eyes were sharp and the tip of the nose well out of focus. It turned out to be a very heavy 85mm ƒ/4 lens."
Steve W: "Thank you, I really enjoyed this, and agree. I think this is why I enjoy using my iPhone so much: no D-o-F issues, lol. (And I can, if I want, control D-o-F after the picture is taken)."
Doug Anderson: "I have the same reaction to photographs that get the near-far focus relationships wrong. I have settled on two simple rules for my own work: 1.) Nothing closer to the camera than the principal subject should be noticably out of focus. 2.) If there is more than one principle subject, e.g. in a group portrait, none of them should be noticeably out of focus. If I can't avoid either of these problems, I don't take the picture."
Dave: "Using the widest aperture just because you have a fast lens—especially with the high ISO speeds of digital cameras—is like driving routinely at top speed in your sports car. You just get fewer tickets, that's all."
Kodachromeguy: "Don't forget the BS belief that more out of focus means the photo has better bokeh. The characteristics of the out of focus portions of the picture are not important, just the total surface area. Sigh...."
Stan B.: "I understand why you don't want to single out unsolicited examples for criticism. But it is important people understand when they are making mistakes in order to grow, mistakes they are very often completely unaware of. I remember when you commented that I had a very original color rendering on a certain photo—or something to that effect. I remember laughing, and very much appreciating such an 'original' (and kind) way of telling me that my color sense needed some real work. It's something I struggle with to this day, but at least I am now no longer oblivious to it...."
B.J.Scharp: "As happens so often in the modern world, many people confuse 'good' with 'a lot.' You can use a slow lens stopped down, and still get 'good' bokeh, and use a fast lens wide open and get 'bad' bokeh."
Stephen S.: "I had a long-term photography gig that I was shooting with Micro 4/3 cameras with zoom lenses, and for a few days, just for fun, I also took a full-frame camera and an 85mm ƒ/1.4, which of course I shot wide-open or close to it, because that would be most different from my other camera setup.
"A few days after submitting the photos, the person I was shooting for called me and was very concerned, telling me that my photos were 'out of focus.' I was surprised by this, as I always reviewed my photos and deleted all the misses and duds before sending them along. After a bit of back-and-forth discussion, and getting the offending photos sent back to me, I discovered they were all the shallow full-frame shots, and even though the close eye of the subjects was tack sharp in all of them, if the far eye was out of the depth-of-field, that led the editor to call the photo 'out of focus.'
"You don't argue with the tastes of the person commissioning you, and, faced with the choice of shooting Micro 4/3 at ƒ/4 or ƒ/5.6, or full-frame at ƒ/8 or ƒ/11, I left the full-frame camera behind."
Yeah, I agree. Part of it, I think, is that photographers (spending money on fast lenses) want their pictures to stand out a bit from the more common phone photographs, where those small aperture phone cameras provide so much DOF. Instead, it’s easy to open to f/1.4 and create a picture that makes people notice. Never mind that the subject or composition is unremarkable, or as you pointed out, the focus is just wrong.
I’ve been guilty: I’ve had my share of shallow photos (shallow DOF, shallow concept), where the subject of the photo actually seemed to be bokeh. Hmmm. Anyway, I’ve been shifting away from that the last couple of years. I’ve even been experimenting with the other end of the aperture ring: f/16? F/22? How much diffraction can I get away with and still have a sharp photo corner to corner. Oh well…f/8 and be there.
Posted by: Curt Gerston | Thursday, 27 March 2025 at 09:50 AM
I remember when the transition from film to digital was happening there was debate over how many megapixels were enough to equal Velvia and different photographers switched at different points. As I recall some were switching when the average sensor was 8 megapixels or so, mostly for the convenience of digital compered to film.
Oddly enough, there were no full-frame sensors at the time. I did not see anyone saying they were sticking with film because of the shallower depth of field. It seems to only have become a thing when full-frame sensors became available. SO I agree that it is a status thing.
Posted by: Also Mike | Thursday, 27 March 2025 at 02:51 PM
You made excellent, but too-often-overlooked points in this post. Focus problems can kill any photograph.
I am reminded of a time when an enthusiast friend brought his brandd-new full-frame digital Leica and suite of four new Leica M-series prime lenses to my office for me to admire. (Yes, he was a dentist! ).
This was an irresistable opportunity to make a real-world comparison, so I took a series of photos with the Leica using one of my own SD cards. After my friend left, I immediately took exactly the same photos in the same manner with my first-generation M4/3 Olympus E-M5 and an Olympus 12-40 zoom lens.
Rather to my surprise, upon comparable enlargement, the photos made with the Olympus were discernibly sharper and crisper throughout. Upon close review, the mechanically focused Leica rangefinder images simply were not as well focused as the contrast-focused Olympus M4/3 images. That's to be expected, I suppose, from even a fresh-from-factory mechanical rangefinder.
There seemed to be several lessons - better focusing trumped full-frame vs. M4/3 sensor size differences, zoom vs. Leica M prime lenses, and spending 10X as much for a camera system that inherently just doesn't focus as accurately.
Maybe there's a reason why Leicaphiles extol zone focusing?
Posted by: Joseph Kashi | Thursday, 27 March 2025 at 03:22 PM
My almost constant default with my Fuji X100 (the most recent one 🤷🏾♂️) that I mainly use on the street is F/8, or F/5.6 on cloudy days and let the cam take care of all the rest.
I have to remember to
stop up? start up?open up the aperture if I specifically want reduced depth of field.I usually have focus issues because I've forgotten to adjust for reduced light. Rarely anything else.
I am pretty sure the issues with my photos are not the camera settings 😂
Posted by: Nikhil Ramkarran | Thursday, 27 March 2025 at 04:42 PM
Hey Mike,
Random thoughts from a fellow old guy follow ...
Thanks for taking some of the blame for the shallow DOF BS that infests amateur photography today. I can't believe that folks think that a portrait of a fellow human has only one eye in focus (because I spent a pile of money on a lens) is normal.
I grew up photographically shooting color slide MF film and max DOF and a clean composition was the mark of a competent professional photographer. Shallow DOF was considered a lazy photographers' crutch to avoid checking the background - or the story was so fast-breaking that it was okay. No one wants stuff growing out of our subject's head lol. But today - if it's OOF and Bokeh blurry then no problem and it's Awesome!!!
As always, the right DOF is the DOF that best tells the photographic story. Rarely, a super shallow DOF is best - but usually us normal humans don't see reality that way. Don't get me started on colorblind males vs. tetrachrome folks and others that don't have UV clouded corneas and now we have phone cams too etc..
So, we all see differently - do humans really embrace the the world as a shallow DOF scene? I have multiple ophthalmologists that would say WTF - that's a problem lol.
Keep seeing and shooting Mike,
Ed
Posted by: Ed Kreminski | Thursday, 27 March 2025 at 06:30 PM
I recall being struck by the minimal DoF fad in local (NZ) cuisine mags back in the late noughties/early teens (yes, magazines were still, just, a thing then). Aspirational photos of a plate with the featured food on a table in a brightly sunlit garden with just a narrow slice of the plate in focus – that sort of thing was all the rage in those designery mags then, which was before the big, fast, full-frame lens era got underway. An art director-driven as much as photographer-driven look, I think.
Posted by: Kevin Crosado | Thursday, 27 March 2025 at 06:46 PM
I want to respond to "Also Mike" to clarify the digital timeline. The Canon 1DS was an 11 megapixel, full frame sensor in 2002 when they're own apsc was 6mp with the D60. That same year Kodak announced their fullframe 14n with 14mp. At the time, the late Michael Reichmann, founder of the Luminous Landscape website, favorably compared the 6mp D60 to medium format film.
Canon's 8mp 20d didn't appear until 2004.
https://luminous-landscape.com/d60-field/
Posted by: Paul Emberger | Thursday, 27 March 2025 at 09:17 PM
Maybe those photographers just aren't thinking about what they're posting, for one. And maybe they do need someone to say to them, "You know, maybe this photo would be better if,,," Daniel Milnor had a post just today on that exact topic (which see: https://shifter.media/creative-the-edit/).
I always struggle with PFP in my own photos. Love it when I get it right, but that's not often enough.
Posted by: Merle H. | Thursday, 27 March 2025 at 10:02 PM
Oh, and love Ed's "Random thoughts from a fellow old guy..." Right on.
Posted by: Merle H. | Thursday, 27 March 2025 at 10:04 PM
Depth of field is one of the reasons I keep talking myself out of getting too much open chequebook technolust over medium format gear. The latest Fuji being a case in point - as much as I'd love to have one, I've looked at enough pics from related Fuji products where even at f8 there is an appreciably narrow zone of focus. It's not what I want from my photography. (shortly followed by looking once again at the Noctitron 42.5mm 1.2 for u43).
Posted by: Keith | Thursday, 27 March 2025 at 10:13 PM
I have no interest in the quality of out of focus areas in an image (which is intended otherwise to be sharp). It just don't attract my attention and I couldn't care less. I bought a TOP print sale of a flower which somehow or other was lauded for the smoothness of its bokeh - I still have it somewhere - and it's a nice pic but can't see what the fuss is about. As far as I'm concerned, an image (or part of it) is in focus or out of focus - I really don't care if there is an abrupt or smooth transition or onion rings or cats eyes or whatever - to me, out of focus is out of focus and the image either works or it doesn't. It might explain why I tend to try and maximise DOF in my personal work though...
Posted by: Bear. | Friday, 28 March 2025 at 03:11 AM
I've actually seen the term DoF used to mean the opposite, as in LACK of DoF. It's such a popular gimmick, it's like "reverse selfie", meaning to aim the camera AWAY from your face.
And don't get me started on Film Masturbations, I mean simulations.
Posted by: Luke | Friday, 28 March 2025 at 08:21 AM
You wrote: “…not the most D-o-F.” Don’t you mean: “…not the least D-o-F.”
[Yeah, you know, I think you're right. I think people know what I meant, but I'll go change that. --Mike]
Posted by: schralp | Friday, 28 March 2025 at 09:02 AM
These days my works involves making video calls with colleagues who typically prefer to turn the blur filter to max. This is often done for privacy reasons (blurring the family photos or the occasional passer-by).
The crudeness of the software filter is astonishing. The area around the head is a visual mess with digital artifacts. The rest of the image also lacks complete depth because the Gaussian blur is evenly applied to all pixels, regardless of camera distance. Apple's Portrait filter is slightly ahead of the gang, but still looks uncanny.
Posted by: Jeroen Pulles | Friday, 28 March 2025 at 09:31 AM
The lack of depth of field scales on most mirrorless camera lenses drives me crazy. Having sold most of my Leica rangefinder equipment, my new favorite lens is my Canon RF 50 f1.2. As extraordinary as the lens is at f1.2, it is even more extraordinary sharp at f5.6. If you look through the viewfinder of the Canon R5, there is a scale showing the distance to your focus point. It would have been really simple to display a shaded overlay showing your depth of field for a given focal length and aperture.
People give advice such as "focus 1/3 into the scene. It would be way more precise just to have that overlay on the distance scale let me know when I'm covered to my desired near and far distances.
Is anyone at Canon listening?
Posted by: Tom Duffy | Friday, 28 March 2025 at 01:18 PM
Further to Mike’s One Camera, One lens, One Year (OCOLOY) exercise from a few years back, it seems to me that an addition might be desirable for interested students.
Recently, I have purchased two cheap plastic cameras, the first 'Reto, Ultra Wide and Slim’, has been around for years with various names attached, famously Vivitar.
The second seems quite new, an American device, called “CampSnap”.
It is similar to the first example but doesn’t require the user to go to the expense of buying film, it is digital and one can print straight from the camera, it also weighs less than 3.5oz.
I must add that I think there will always be an important place for film, otherwise how would we use one of the best camera/lens combinations ever made, the Hasselblad SWA,C (and its ilk)?
For a camera as teacher, I believe it is superb and there is no good reason to ever stop learning.
Not that my recommendation is all that relevant, but I have had good fun with it during the few months that I have had it.
Oh and finally, notwithstanding the above, I am also very enthusiastic about lensless snapshottery and note that World Pinhole Photography Day, is but a few weeks away on April 27th.
Posted by: Stephen Jenner | Saturday, 29 March 2025 at 05:28 AM
I remember when I was making photos at live gigs in cafes with a large sensor camera. I was using a 105mm f2. 105 because I couldn't get close. f2 because those places were dimly lit and I need to go to f2 or f2.8. Well... I seldom had enough DoF. Which is why, for the same kind of photography, I'm happy to be using a m43 camera now.
I do wonder if the lack of blurriness in my photos , especially the ones I make in bright daylight, is the reason why so many people tell me they look like paintings, though? Not that I mind, but I wonder. Could be most people expect shallow DoF in "quality" photography, now?
Posted by: Thomas Paris | Monday, 31 March 2025 at 05:49 AM